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A Guide to: Oval Diamonds


An oval diamond and a diamond engagement semi-mount surrounded by loose diamonds.

An up and coming trend in the diamond and engagement world is the oval diamond – the rounded, elongated shape lends itself well to both modern and vintage settings and looks exceptional in all metal types. The oval cut diamond is a popular choice for women who want a unique and stunning stone to commemorate their promise of love. Due to its spread and table size, this particular cut of diamond tends to look larger than other diamond shapes of equal carat weight. 


Cut: The most important part of any diamond is the cut. This influences the overall beauty and structure of the diamond as well as it’s sparkle and light return. Although this stone cut is a variation of the round brilliant, the GIA does not provide cut grading for oval diamonds. The quality of the cut is determined by the jeweler and the purchaser. 


Diagram of an oval diamond from the top and side

Due to their elongated shape, most oval cut diamonds have a “bowtie” effect running through the center of the stone. This dark space can influence the worth of the diamond: a noticeable bowtie can be distracting and take away from the diamond’s fire. It’s recommended to choose a diamond without a noticeable bowtie as it’s a sign of a poor cut. The darker the bowtie, the less sparkle, and the poorer the cut! 


Variations of the "bowtie" effect, or dark area, in three different oval diamonds.

Clarity: The GIA grades clarity on a decreasing scale, from internally flawless (IF) to Included (I1-I2). Due to its shape, the oval diamond tends to hide inclusions well – much like the round brilliant and the princess cuts. Most inclusions can be found near the rounded ends where the setting would overlap the stone, making them difficult to see with the naked eye. 

  • IF – Internally Flawless

  • VVS1 – Very Very Small Inclusions 1

  • VVS2 – Very Very Small Inclusions 2

  • VS1 – Very Small Inclusions 1

  • VS2 – Very Small Inclusions 2

  • SI1 – Small Inclusions 1

  • SI2 – Small Inclusions 2

  • I1 – Inclusions 1

  • I2 – Inclusions 2

GIA clarity scale

Color: The GIA grades color on a scale from D to Z. D being colorless or the most colorless a diamond can be, and Z being noticeably yellow or brown. It’s nearly impossible to notice the gradual color difference as diamonds move down the scale with the naked eye. On occasion, a slight difference can be seen if two diamonds of different colors are placed directly next to each other. Even then, the change in color is slight, but the price difference between color grades can be significant. 

GIA color scale

Carat: Oval cut diamonds tend to appear larger when viewed from the top compared to other shapes of the same weight. This illusion is due to their spread and table width, as well as their signature elongated shape. 


The modern, curved shape of the oval cut diamond is perfect for women who want to showcase their distinct personality. Set north-to-south, an oval diamond can make the finger appear slimmer and longer while looking elegant and classic. Set east-to-west, an oval diamond can take on a unique look that can’t be found just anywhere. This is a versatile and trendy look that can be customized to match the unique style of the woman wearing it! 

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